Hackintosh Build – November 2011
Several friends have requested that I post details about my “Hackintosh” build. It was a time consuming process, but it was worth it, since I saved about $2000!
First of all, I want to clarify that although I’m referring to this as a “Hackintosh”, there is no actual hacking involved. There are a few hoops to jump through to get it to work correctly, but I think you’ll agree that they are minor, in relation to the return you get from your time invested. Therefore, I prefer to refer to it as a MacClonePro.
Researching hardware:
To begin, I heavily referenced tonymacx86.com to decide on the hardware to buy and for OS X installation instructions. This page contains a matrix of several confirmed hardware combinations that have worked. I would recommend not straying far from these options at all to help save you frustration or disappointment after you build. NOTE: I did not bother to get a Bluetooth chip or a WiFi chip. I can add those as USB adapters later on.
Purchasing hardware:
Mostly I used Amazon.com to research prices (I have no faith in eBay at all). I also compared prices over at Newegg.com, since they have had competitive prices in the past and are a reputable company to work with. Each of the parts below are linked to the actual product page from the site that I purchased it from.
Here is a list of hardware that I chose for my MacClonePro:
Motherboard: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R CPU: Intel i7-960 Core - 3.2 Ghz Quad-Core CPU Cooler *1: Corsair A70 Dual Fan High-performance CPU Cooler RAM: Corsair 8 GB (2x4 GB) Vengeance DDR3 Graphics Card: Gigabyte ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB GDDR5 PCI-e Harddrive *2: Samsung Spinpoint 1 TB 7200 rpm SATA PSU: Corsair TX850W DVD: Sony Optiarc 24x DVD Burner SATA Case: Corsair 600T Graphite Series Mid-tower
*1 – I had to remove one of the fans because it didn’t leave enough clearance for the RAM chips.
*2 – When I first priced these drives, they were $65, but due to the flooding in Thailand where the drives were made, they doubled in price.
Hardware Installation:
Read the product instructions!!!!! Here are some snapshots of the build process:
Photos courtesy of Vince Ammann
Snow Leopard OS X Installation:
As I mentioned above, I heavily referenced tonymacx86.com for this project, including the OS X installation. I followed this page to the letter, and it worked perfectly. In case it’s not clear enough, I’ll spell it out a bit more:
- I downloaded iBoot and created a CD from that ISO. I then set the CDROM as the first boot device in the BIOS.
- I booted the computer using the iBoot CD and then followed the instructions on the guide page that I linked above.
- During installation of Snow Leopard, I created a partition that was only 100GB in size and left the rest of the HDD as free space. I did this because I intend on triple-booting my computer with Windows 7 Professional and Kubuntu. I’ll probably write another blog post about that project.
- I went to my university to download the 10.6.8 upgrade DMG, since it is a bit over 1 GB in size. My internet connection just isn’t fast enough to make that a viable download time.
- When I got to the part about installing MultiBeast, I read in the installation guide about getting a pre-edited DSDT for my setup. You’ll have to register with his site, in order to get to that database. I found the appropriate DSDT for my motherboard and put it on the desktop and chose UserDSDT in MultiBeast.
- After this, Snow Leopard worked as expected, but the PC wouldn’t boot from the HDD alone and required the iBoot CD to boot into Snow Leopard. So, I did some research and found a post in TonyMac’s forum that solved that issue. I can’t post a link to it, since you have to be registered to even read the forum. But the post that I found was under the topic called “System Specific 10.6 Guides Based on iBoot + MultiBeast only” by the user named TheSmartGuy and the post title was “Installing Snow Leopard (GA-P67A-D3-B3 + Core i5 2500K + GTX 460) – Everything works; no DSDT used – Includes workaround for random freezing due to Fermi graphics cards”.
I should say that the boot up isn’t seamless like if you bought an actual Mac, but I don’t have a problem with hitting the Enter key to continue the boot. Also, there were a couple of configurations that I had to set to get the system to work totally smoothly.
- I disabled the Energy Saver from putting the monitor to sleep, as I couldn’t get it to wake from it after it had gone to sleep. This isn’t an issue for me, since I use a screensaver.
- To switch from Line Out to Headphones, I have to do this manually under System Preferences -> Audio -> Output
Total build cost: $1218 with shipping (The monitor, mouse and keyboard are not included in that amount).
As spec’d on the Apple Store: $3274
Let me know if you have any questions!








Very cool. You going for any special kind of monitor?
Well, I got a great deal at Sam’s Club on a Samsung 20″ LED monitor for $130. I’m hoping that when I get more school money in January, I can add another one.
Will you be using time machine? Any issues w that?
I haven’t decided if I’ll be doing that or not.